Casa Mazal, Córdoba

Ironically named Jesús, the manager is a ball of frenetic energy, in high contrast to the calm young chef, Nicolas Montés, who prepares intricate Kosher dishes behind the scenes. “We don’t serve pork, shellfish, or milk products,” Jesús Guerrero López points out. “And we use lots of herbs like cilantro and rosemary, keeping a balance of sweet and spicy.” Dishes like chicken with honey, dates, and raisins; couscous with chicken and lemon; and pishkado or “fish in plum sauce” are all redolent of North Africa and the Middle East.