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Sauces

Appears in
Good Cheap Food

By Miriam Ungerer

Published 1973

  • About

Sauces are associated in the American mind with extravagant French cooking. However, it must be remembered that thrift is the soul of French bourgeois cuisine (home cooking as opposed to complicated restaurant cooking), and some of the basic sauces are used with dazzling effect to elevate a simple dish or to transform leftovers. Anything called “gravy,” no matter how dreary, seems to be acceptable to us, but the Anglo-Saxon attitude to “sauces” has been either Puritanical or primitively suspicious: “What’s the point of mucking up a perfectly good boiled potato?” or “Damned French cooks, masking ‘turned’ goods in a fancy cover.” Restaurants, with their heavy, sprawling sauces, must bear a good deal of the blame for the persistence of these musty old notions. Nothing can disguise spoiled food, and, at any rate, sauces are meant to enhance, not smother, other foods. It is true that a modest knowledge of sauce-making can vary and stretch rather smaller amounts of meat and fish than we are accustomed to serving per person.

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