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Pâtes Levées

Yeast Doughs

Appears in
Hows and Whys of French Cooking

By Alma Lach

Published 1974

  • About
The French housewife does not normally make bread at home. The small restaurants ordinarily do not bake on the premises. Breads are bought from the neighborhood bakeshop. Therefore, practically no bread recipes come to us from the homes or the chefs of France. The men who work in the bakeries are all members of the bakers’ guild. Their secrets of dough making are passed on to apprentice bakers and do not become common knowledge.
I learned some techniques of handling dough while in France, but nothing about bread making. So desperate was I to learn to make French bread that I offered my services to our neighborhood bakeshop for nothing. I was refused on the grounds that it was not possible for “Madame” to become a guild member. I was, however, allowed to sit at a respectful distance and watch; but I could ask no questions nor could I interfere with the baking process. After a short time of sitting I departed.

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