Meat

Appears in

The Independent Cook: Strategies for Seasonal Cooking

Published 1988

About

The meat trade generally has to acknowledge a steep post-Christmas plummet. There is an understandable lack of interest in poultry while red meat – especially beef – becomes almost reasonable in price through the fall in demand.

Game birds still in season are in their last, old tough months, with the exception of pigeon, so mixed game casseroles and pies are a good way to see them out. Or make a thick game stew and bake it, either almost covered by a piped ring of raw choux paste to make an elegant gougère, or topped with flour and butter rubbed together with salt, spices and crushed, toasted hazelnuts for a savoury crumble.