The Centre: Mtskheta and the Kartlis

This chapter explores the centre of Georgia, west and south of Tbilisi, from the southern part of Mtskheta-Mtianeti region (see Chapter 10, for the mountainous part) to Shida and Kvemo Kartli. They are all within easy reach of Tbilisi on a day trip. It begins at Mtskheta, Georgia’s former capital and UNESCO World Heritage Site, before visiting the country’s most popular bean restaurant and the impressive national vine collection near Saguramo whose research vineyard holds over 400 varieties. Between visits to several natural winemakers – including two pioneering women – we explore Shida (Inner) Kartli before heading south towards Kvemo (Lower) Kartli’s border with Armenia for important archæological sites. The hominid finds in Dmanisi from 1.77 million years ago place Georgia at the heart of the world’s earliest culture.