Chowders & Soups

The formidable Louis De Gouy tells us the word "chowder" comes from the French for cauldron; la chaudwre, or "hotpot." A sort of gourmet Mulligan Stew, the French chowder was often a community pastiche at festival time, when many families made their contribution to the pot. De Gouy cautions that, despite Ladies' Tea Shoppe debasements, the three indispensable ingredients are clams, onions and salt pork-or in this case, bacon. Those who like tomatoes in their clam chowder are urged to consult some other cookbook.