Thosai are thin pancakes made from a fermented batter of rice and black gram. Bamini uses whole black gram, which she insists is the only way to make thosai, but it takes considerable time and patience to peel their skins. To save time, you can use skinned black gram instead — but don’t tell Bamini! Thosai are cooked on a flat cast-iron pan known as a tava, which are available from Sri Lankan and Indian specialty stores. This recipe is a labour of love and