Whole Wheat Buttermilk Biscuits

Buttermilk biscuits aren’t so unusual—you can find a recipe nearly anywhere— but when made with good flour they are very special. I was reminded of this when given a gift of several pounds of flour made from wheat grown and ground by a farmer in Kansas. Coarsely textured and sweet-smelling, it made the most satisfying biscuits you can imagine, and I treasured this flour as much as expensive vials of saffron. Its good flavor, nutty and complex, derived from the fact that it included the bran