The start of a meal is crucial. It sets the tone, and is often the most remembered dish. Appetites are keen and your guests at their most observant and appreciative of the food, not yet distracted by conversation, and, possibly, by a fair amount of good wine. First courses and puddings can both be inspiring because there is a chance for a bit of fantasy and artistry. And like puddings, since they are not absolutely essential, they seem more of a treat. If you are a true vegetarian, you could combine starters and vegetable side dishes to make a complete one-course main meal. Alternatively, just two could be used for a light meal served simply with good bread – possibly one from the breads chapter. A first course must never be too filling; it is, after all, supposed to titillate the appetite for further good things. You should always choose something which has not only quite different ingredients from the main course, but contrasting colour and texture too. Soups are always popular and look particularly special presented in a handsome tureen.