Poultry and Game

‘Poultry,’ wrote the nineteenth-century French gastronome Brillât Savarin, ‘is for the cook what canvas is to the painter. It is served to us boiled, roasted, fried, hot or cold, whole or in pieces, with or without sauce, boned, skinned, stuffed, and always with equal success.’ I don’t think anyone who cooks would disagree with him, for poultry – chicken especially – is incredibly versatile. Game, too, is one of my favourite ingredients, intense in flavour, and versatile in the ways it can be cooked – and it’s very British.