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October

Truffles and the last of the hedgerow

Appears in
A Cook’s Year in a Welsh Farmhouse

By Elisabeth Luard

Published 2011

  • About
BARE BRANCHES OF BIRCH and willow, pale and spidery against the dark mass of the evergreens, reveal peat-darkened pools in the wildwood. In the woodland close to the house, leaves of scarlet and bronze are whipped into whirlpools by the wind. The swallows are gone and a few late-hatched butterflies with tattered wings tuck themselves into cracks in the stone walls of the barns to wait for spring.

Jessie, Bonnie and Harper are back for the autumn half-term holiday, just in time to gather the last of the berries – bramble and rowan – from the lane that links Brynmerheryn to the road that crosses the moorland. An excursion to inspect the beech woods around the burnt-out mansion at Hafod – source of Monica’s gleanings when furnishing Brynmerheryn in the 1930s, including tiles for the glass passage – yields the last of the year’s crop of penny buns (porcini mushrooms) to dry for the store cupboard.

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