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Published 1992
“Sin el chile los mexicanos no creen que están comiendo” (“Without chile, Mexicans don’t believe they’re eating”), observed Fray Bartolomé de las Casas in the sixteenth century, an eternal truth. Regardless of class, economic position,, or anything else, all Mexicans eat chile at all times. It is culinary basic, junk food, medicine, drug, business, and recreation. If corn is the backbone of our cooking since prehistory, chile is its soul.
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