Game

Knowing that I often cook game and write about it, someone asked me if I thought game was elitist food. I said no and was then asked why, in that case, did not more people eat it. Availability is one reason, but even that can be overcome by ordering what you want from your local butcher. The supermarkets, too, are stocking an ever-increasing range of both feathered and furred game.

It is not expensive when you compare it with other meat and poultry. A whole hare weighing 5–6 lb / 2.30–2.70 kg should cost no more than a similar-sized chicken, and often much less. It has tender meat on the saddle for roasting, the hindquarters for jugged hare, plenty of carcass to make good rich soup, and meat on the forequarters to combine with belly pork, liver and spices for a well-flavoured terrine or coarse pâté.