Biryani Curries

Biryanis (from the Persian term biriyan—to fry before cooking), of which there are more than thirty-five different styles across India, were introduced and made popular by several invaders—the Moghuls being of prime influence, having gathered the taste for them from the Persians. The Nawabs of Lucknow and the Nizams of Hyderabad popularized these layered meat-rice-nuts dishes all across India. The fancier the occasion, the more elaborate the biryani—some even included pounded silver leaves. I consider these biryanis to be meals in themselves; the only accompaniments they need are a simple yogurt-based raita (even a bowl of plain yogurt will suffice), pickles (either homemade or store-bought), and flame-toasted lentil wafers (papads).

The constitution of a biryani is rather simple. First, meat, if it is included, is marinated and braised, spiced and simmered in various sauces. Second, to prepare the rice layer, ghee is perfumed with whole spices, and sometimes with nuts and raisins, and then basmati rice is steeped in the butter (with water) to partially cook it. Finally, alternating layers of the meat curry and rice pulao are spread in a casserole and baked until the flavors mingle and the rice grains are tender. Saffron Rice Layered with Lamb-Tomato Curry is a good example of this technique. The exception to pre-cooking the meat separately and then combining it with rice is the Hyderabadi classic Yogurt-Marinated Lamb with Rice, Saffron, and Mint, where uncooked (but marinated) lamb is combined with partially cooked rice and baked to completion. Although many of the biryanis are meat-based, vegetarians have adapted these dishes to include legumes and vegetables—for example, Rajasthani Dumpling-Studded Basmati Rice, Rice and Lentil Casserole with Onions, and Garlicky Festive Rice.