Porcini mushrooms, also called ceps, are the kings of the forest floor come fall. They're among the most sought-after wild mushrooms, with a particularly full, rich flavor and firm texture. If you are lucky enough to get fresh wild mushrooms, simple recipes such as Pappardelle with Ceps or Potato Gnocchi with a Fricassée of Wild Mushrooms will show them off beautifully. Dried porcini work well too. Try them in Pici alla Boscaiola.