A declaration of interest: I have edited Nigel Slater's work in the Observer for 16 years, the first to see the weekly column that has made him the country's best loved cookery writer. But before that I collected his recipes, tore them out, and still have many stuck between other book's pages. This though is my favourite. The purest pleasure to read. Open it on any page. Effortless. The most gifted writer of his brilliant generation.