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Sauces, Salsas, Dressings and Stocks

Appears in
Classic Bull

By Stephen Bull

Published 2001

  • About
Sauce-making is another branch of cooking that’s out of favour in restaurants, apart from (the necessary exception) Béarnaise with, usually, rib-eye steak and chips. Suddenly, sauces were kicked aside by jus, salsas and flavoured oils. Great to have these newcomers, but let’s not suddenly bin the idea of sauce – a more complex and versatile liquid than the ‘jus’, which is for the most part just a reduced stock. I can understand the relief felt by cooks when something came along (nouvelle cuisine) to break the shackles that bound them to the béchamel and velouté, but the baby was rather thrown out with the bathwater. Sauces, I suppose, were seen as emblematic of a corrupt ancien régime of cooking and had to be ruthlessly suppressed by the commissars of the revolution (not so much the great chefs who started the subversion as the commentators who didn’t really understand it, and the plodding imitators who then bowdlerized it). Perhaps at home you haven’t noticed this curious exile: but how long is it since you saw hollandaise sauce or beurre blanc on a menu, not to mention their variations? I don’t think it’s due to health preoccupations: it’s mere fashion.

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