September and October

Just as I become bored with the barbecue and the weather begins to change, so does the food on offer. But that’s the beauty of eating with the seasons. Sweetcorn is usually the first sign to me that summer is on the way out, and just as this happens the first girolle mushrooms appear, so these two old friends always end up on my menus in a dish together.

The lightness of summer tends to edge out gradually with the appearance of apples, pears, pumpkins and squashes. These to my mind are the forerunners of the big winter veg to come. I have become a big fan of quince since moving to Wales and gaining access to the local supply. We use them in various ways, particularly to create a more aromatic crumble than with just apples or pears, and as quince paste to serve with our local cheeses.