A genuine free-range chicken is a marvellous thing, full of flavour and capable of so many culinary expressions. Finding such a chicken is not always easy. The majority of birds so described by supermarkets are patently not free-range – having, in reality, been raised intensively in giant sheds without access to the outdoors, to the sunshine, grass, earth, worms and insects which give the words ‘free-range’ significance. The French produce genuine free-range chickens and they are sold here, though mostly to restaurants. A halfway decent butcher will get you French chickens if you ask him or they may know somebody who raises real free-range birds locally.