Cold-smoking

Cold-smoking meat is a go-to move in the Momofuku kitchen. Here’s a way to do it on a kettle barbecue, the kind most people have at home.

Put two large handfuls of wood chips, preferably mesquite, in a large mixing bowl and add water to cover. Put a chimney starter on a heatproof surface. Dump four handfuls charcoal, preferably hardwood lump, in the chimney starter, put crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light the paper.

Open up the vents in the lid and the bottom of the barbecue. Remove the top rack and wash it well with soapy water. Put a disposable aluminium roasting pan on the bottom rack (or in the bottom of the barbecue). Grab the wood chips from the water, shake them off and scatter them in an even layer in the pan.