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Soup

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By Fred Plotkin

Published 1997

  • About

Soup has, for centuries, been the worldwide food of the cold and the poor. It serves as a catchall for miscellaneous ingredients that make better music as part of an orchestra of flavors than they do as soloists. This is no different in Liguria, with a couple of exceptions. The first is that Ligurian ingredients are usually of superior quality, so one does not feel compromised by eating a bowl of soup there. Where else are soups made with such a bounty of funghi porcini? The second is that there are several Ligurian soups that have relatively few ingredients, such as Zuppa di Aglio or La Pagioada, but nonetheless stint neither on flavor nor the pleasure they give.

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