The Romans introduced snails to the table and today they are so popular that even in Britain we eat at least 60 tonnes a year – so says Richard Hales, a leading gastronaut and snailologist. He tells me that the bulk of sales are of the ready-prepared ones, already stuffed with garlic butter. It really isn’t feasible to provide live snails in quantity, though if you want to wander along the hedgerows and garden walls, especially after a light shower, you may find some edible ones – but check with a snail book that you have found the edible variety!