Published 1999
Hamburger Products was a smoked and cured fish shop in Brewer Street. They prepared everything themselves in a small factory in Bloomsbury, and either sold it to take away or to eat at the curious semi-circular counter. Curious because it was built round the largest stoneware pot of rollmop herrings ever. Finding a couple of starters for my menus in those days was never a problem: pop around to Brewer Street and see what they had on the slab. One special offering caught my eye, a large sturgeon, which had been caught in British waters and presented to the Queen. She sold it on to be smoked by the
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