I CAN’T TOLERATE HOT foods the way the rest of my family can. My dad eats fresh tiny green chillies as a side with his meals, and my mother throws generous handfuls of hot dried chillies into the blender when she makes her fish curries. I don’t think I would survive either.
As a kid, I wanted to cook everything out of my parents’ cookbooks, so I attempted the classic Punjabi samosa. The recipe calls for a lot of freshly ground black peppercorns and green chillies. I assembled and fried the pastries—but they were too hot to eat. They tasted pungent. My mouth and ears were on fire. It taught me that our individual ability to handle heat varies; what works for some might not work for others. I began to pay attention to how much heat could work as a middle ground for me and the people I fed—what types of chillies fit with specific dishes. Alongside the salt on my table at home is a range of hot sauces so those I feed can add as much heat as they need.