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By Anne Willan
Published 2007
Aglance at the map explains why the French are such lovers of fish. Three sides of l’héxagone, as France is habitually called, border three very different waters. In the south, the warm waters and shallow depths of the Mediterranean welcome the likes of swordfish, tuna, conger eel, and smaller spiny fish like rascasse (scorpion fish). On the French Riviera near Italy, the coastline is rocky, while at the other end in Languedoc, vast sandy beaches overlook shallow lagoons. In these still waters, plump mussels grow outsize, just right for stuffing or soup. You also find squid and a wide range of clams, such as palourdes and the little clovisses that are so good with rice and pasta, or simmered with garlic, herbs, and white wine.
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