November and December

The winter weather stimulates big appetites and demands bold flavours, so it’s good news for chefs that the game season is in full flow. We have a constant supply of pheasant from the local estates, which we like to make good use of in our Christmas menus instead of the dreaded turkey. I am also particularly partial to whole roast woodcock, and despite the reaction it gets from many onlookers, I think it’s best served in its traditional dramatic fashion, innards, beak and all.

Rich game dishes and sticky braised meats make a good excuse to enjoy those big red wines you’ve not been sure what to drink with all year. In fact, I like to explore the top shelf of the bar in December and I put lots of dishes on the menu that benefit from a big splash from a spirit or liqueur bottle. It seems entirely appropriate and festive!