Cyprus Cinnamon + Roses

Pappou, my special grandfather, was an ironmonger by trade and definitely a cook at heart. He was responsible for certain dishes in the household, which nobody interfered with. These were the souvlakia, souvla and all barbecues, when he would sit outside for ages turning the meat around and around. The salad, too, was his section, and so were those beautiful chips that had a method to their seeming madness. Pappou gave me his recipes, with measurements such as ‘one flat woodenspoonful of sugar’, as he stirred.