Dumplings and Other Doughs

The many doughs of dim sum and their changing consistencies and properties comprise perhaps the most important and intriguing aspect of dim sum cookery. Most dim sum are dumplings, buns, or breads based on white doughs—the majority made of wheat flour, some made of glutinous rice flour, and a very few made of rice flour. All flours are called “fun,” or powder, by the Chinese, so that wheat flour is mien fun, a high-gluten wheat flour or noodle flour is gun mien fun, glutinous rice flour is nor mai fun, and rice flour is jim mai fun.