Fresh from the sea and river

Until about a hundred years ago, fresh fish from the sea was rarely seen inland, and farmers’ wives used smoked or salted sea fish. They did, however, get fresh fish from rivers, streams and ponds. It was abundant, from perch and bream to salmon, carp and pike. So were eels and freshwater shellfish.

Many housewives used estuary and coastal fish too. The coastal areas of the West Country and East Anglia in particular were rich in herring, mackerel and pilchard, as well as cockles, mussels and oysters. There are many traditional ways of preparing all these in cider or vinegar which make delicious dishes, and which also serve to preserve the fish for a while.