Sauces

Not so long ago, I served as a judge at the Memphis in May International World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. I was dazzled by the virtuosity of the pork shoulders and astonished by the penetrating smoke flavor of the ribs. But what really took my breath away was the sheer diversity of the sauces.

Sauces have always been a touchstone of a pit master’s art. In North America they range from the sweet, tomatoey sauces you find in Kansas City to the vinegar-based sauces of northern North Carolina, and from the mustard-based sauces of southern North Carolina to the fiery salsas of the American Southwest.