Consuming Passions: Garlic

Kumud Gandhi, the founder of The Cooking Academy cookery school, is a food writer, critic, broadcaster and food scientist. She is also the author of The Garlic Story, a cookbook entirely dedicated to the pungent vegetable which plays a key role in so many national cuisines. To mark National Garlic Day in the US on April 19th, Kumud here considers the many uses of garlic in all its varied forms, and why it holds such a special place in her heart.

By Kumud Ghandi

For me, garlic is divine, and at the centre of what I call the holy trinity of ingredients that is garlic, ginger and chillies. Few ingredients can produce flavour in so many distinct ways when cooked correctly. Nothing is more beautiful than delicately roasted garlic, simply popped into the oven whole with all the cloves still on the bulb; it gets mellower and sweeter, ready to be squeezed out of the skins once soft and unctuous. When I smell garlic cooking in butter, it evokes so many emotions, transporting me immediately to lazy holidays in sunnier climes or simply making me feel that everything is alright with the world. Over the years, as I have learned more, cooked more and simply experimented with garlic more, it has become my superhero, an ingredient that lifts my spirits and brightens my day. It’s the one ingredient I would never be without, and I seldom feel guilty that I may have garlic breath… there are worse things to worry about!

The story of garlic is as old as civilization itself. Believed to have originated in Central Asia, garlic made its way across continents, finding its place in the cuisines of countless cultures. It travelled along the ancient Silk Road, reaching the shores of England many centuries ago. Its journey is steeped in folklore and tradition, with tales of garlic's mystical powers to ward off evil spirits, vampires, and even illness.

A lifelong culinary love affair

My journey with this humble ingredient began in my childhood kitchen where its pungent aroma filled the air and infused our family recipes with irresistible flavour. Since then, garlic has become not just an ingredient in my cooking but a lifelong love affair, rich with history and culture to be explored and embraced. 

As a food scientist and nutritionist I am simply in awe of the natural health benefits and nutritional value of garlic. My love affair with garlic stems from its incredible versatility and multitude of benefits. For nearly as long as there has been a written record of history, garlic has been mentioned as a food and its origins date back almost 7000 years. From enhancing the flavour of dishes to promoting health and well-being, garlic holds a special place in my heart, my garden and of course my kitchen.

Misuse of garlic is a crime in my book. Garlic should be treated with the greatest respect, not only in the way you cook it but also the way in which you prepare it. There are many ways to prepare this wonderful vegetable. If you are slicing then be sure to use a sharp knife, or else crush it with the flat of the blade, but please do not use a garlic press. It is simply such a brutal instrument for something that deserves such tenderness. It is the delicate use of garlic that makes the most profound difference to a recipe.

For those of you who are a little unsure, the key to cooking garlic is to tame that punch to enjoy garlic the way it should be enjoyed: with delight, reverence, and anticipation. Armed with the right information, you will be able to experiment with adding a little (or a lot) more garlic to your home cooking, in everything from classic garlic bruschetta to wild garlic pesto.

The rich history of garlic through the centuries

Garlic has been on the culinary radar for more than 7,000 years and has been used in many guises including medicines, aphrodisiacs, currency, and even magic potions. From ancient Egypt and Greece to medieval Europe and beyond, garlic has played a central role in culinary traditions, folklore, and medicine. Preserved garlic was discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamen and in ancient Greek temples. The commonly held belief that garlic was able to ward off disease and ailments was deeply embedded in ancient civilisations and, even more interestingly, cultures that developed in isolation all came to the same conclusions about the efficacy of garlic.

Its reputation as a powerful medicinal herb and culinary staple has stood the test of time, earning it a rightful place in kitchens and gardens worldwide.

Beyond its culinary appeal, garlic is a nutritional powerhouse packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Historic accounts of garlic consider it to be an incredibly strong medicine.  Early scriptures consider garlic to be preferred for its medicinal use even more than its culinary pleasures. Garlic contains high amounts of sulphur compounds, amino acids, and selenium, giving garlic its pungent odour and strong anti-cancer and antioxidant effects.  Research from leading institutions such as the National Institutes of Health and the British Nutrition Foundation highlights its myriad of health benefits, from boosting immune function to reducing inflammation and lowering cholesterol levels. With its impressive array of nutrients, garlic is a natural ally in promoting overall health and well-being in my book and one that I wouldn’t choose to be without.

Diverse varieties of garlic

Horticulturally speaking garlic is a bulbous, perennial herb and a close relative to the onion. Its leaves along common narrow and taper towards the end almost like a grass or a spear. When maturing it produces a tall stem that can grow between 2-3 feet in height with pink or purple flowers that bloom in mid to late summer. The bulb is made-up of cloves grouped together by shoots and enclosed in a papery skin.

Exploring the diverse varieties of garlic is a must, for it comes in many different varieties, each with its own unique flavour profile and culinary uses. Broadly speaking, there are three basic types of garlic bulbs. Hard neck garlic grows in colder climates and is the hardiest of all garlics offering a very robust flavour. Soft neck garlic is the most used variety of garlic, it comes with soft shell leaves rather than the stalk and has a much longer shelf life of almost 12 months.  Then there is the giant elephant garlic, a gentle giant and probably my favourite. Finally, beautiful black garlic is garlic that has been carefully aged (and often smoked) to deliver a sweet, sticky, treacle-like flavor — a delight with pasta dishes, always…

The colour, texture and taste of the bulb and cloves can vary greatly but whatever your preference, there is a garlic variety and style of preparation to suit your palate. Whether roasted, sautéed, or raw, each type of garlic adds its own distinct character to dishes, elevating them to new heights of flavour and complexity.

Foraging for wild garlic/ramsons

I am a keen forager of wild garlic which is in season in late spring. I am always respectful and take only what I need, leaving the rest undisturbed for fellow foragers. Foraging for wild garlic is a delightful adventure that allows us to connect with nature and discover the bounty of the earth. Wild garlic is also known as ramsons is a perennial plant that can be found in the UK from late March to June when it grows in abundance in damp shady deciduous woods, creating a beautiful carpet of lush greens leaves.  The leaves are long, pointed and oval shapes with untoothed edges.

With its delicate leaves and pungent aroma, wild garlic adds a fresh and vibrant touch to dishes, from salads and soups to pestos and sauces. For me, the first recipe I make with wild garlic must always be a jar of deep emerald-green pesto, a jewel to adorn my pasta or sourdough. 

Garlic in every form – from starters to desserts and everything in between

Garlic's versatility knows no bounds, and it can be enjoyed in myriad forms and preparations. From starters and side dishes to mains and even desserts, garlic adds depth and complexity to a wide range of culinary creations. Whether infused into butter, poached or pickled as a condiment, or caramelized to perfection, garlic delights the senses and tantalizes the taste buds with its rich and robust flavour. My favourite way to enjoy garlic is as a confit, poached in beautiful luxurious olive oil, then cooled to enjoy on a piece of crusty sourdough bread. Delicious on its own or with a bowl of juicy mussels.

Or perhaps try a creamy garlic soup? I’ve grown used to the raised eyebrows when I serve it up for a supper to friends, suspicious and inquisitive all at once — until it soothes their palate with surprise, delight and pleasant relief to their misconception.

And finally, to continue the theme of surprises why not try a delicious garlic ice cream. A sweet and creamy texture with a hint of garlic, where roasting the garlic ensures an overall sweeter flavour note than the fresh bulb, which I think is perfect for making at home or try some at the garlic farm in the Isle of Wight.

Garlic across cultures & cuisines

Garlic is used in diverse ways across different cultures and cuisines, from the subtle flavouring of southern Italian pasta dishes to the pungent kick of Korean kimchi. In Mediterranean cuisine, garlic is often paired with olive oil and herbs to create flavourful marinades and sauces, while in Asian cooking, it is used in stir-fries, curries, and soups for its aromatic properties. In England our association with garlic is often considered to have emanated from French cuisine, where it is most pungent.  Spanish cooking is also very generous in its use of garlic — it is often the key ingredients in dishes such as prawns in garlic and chilli sauce. Italian cuisine on the other hand has a great deal of regional difference, for instance in the northern part of Italy have very little use of garlic - famously, former prime minister Silvio Berlusconi wouldn’t permit anyone in his cabinet to consume garlic while they were around him. In the southern regions of Italy, garlic is used in a very subtle and effective way by sautéing garlic in olive oil and then removing it from the dish – having accomplished its work.

Garlic is the backbone of Middle Eastern cookery and it’s the countries that cluster around the Mediterranean sea that use it most widely.  Popular dips such as toum, hummus and baba ghanoush all feature garlic front and centre. Molokhia, the traditional Arab dish known as the food of the pharaohs, can contain up to three whole bulbs of garlic.

Aside from the punchy, garlic-rich sauces, the key to Middle Eastern cuisine lies in its subtlety, the layering and blending of herbs and spices, the sweet and savoury accents, with no single ingredient dominating.  Garlic plays its part here too, slow-cooked to melt and mingle unobtrusively with its fellow ingredients — without it, the dish is incomplete.

No matter where you go in the world, garlic is a beloved ingredient that adds depth and complexity to dishes and brings people together around the table. I view garlic as a great gift bestowed on us by Mother Nature, to be respected and utilised with care and imagination. Unless you are allergic to it or have an unconquerable aversion to its flavour, garlic will quietly underpin most dishes in your weekly repertoire. Herein lies its appeal: most of us already cook with it and know that it adds wonderful flavour and aroma; it’s a familiar ingredient that we feel comfortable with. At the same time, many of us secretly long for inspiration to get us off the recipe treadmill, and garlics many uses provide endless options.

In cultures around the world, garlic is a symbol of hospitality and friendship, with meals shared around the table as a gesture of warmth and goodwill. Garlic’s versatility offers us inspiration, because whether you look to Europe, Asia, or the Middle East, garlic is the common denominator for a world of diverse flavours and cooking techniques. In my own home, garlic is the cornerstone of every gathering, with friends and family coming together to share stories, laughter, and of course, delicious food.

Kumud Gandhi is a food scientist, nutritionist, master spice blender, author and public speaker – On the science of food. She is passionate about using food as tools to manage our health and wellness – where food is not only pleasurable but functional and medicinal for better long term health outcomes.

Her latest book, The Garlic Story, is a love letter to this humble vegetable – in which she explores the rich history of garlic, folklore, religious beliefs about its uses and how it has been used in various cuisines throughout the world.

ckbk Premium Members have access to the full content of The Garlic Story via the ckbk website and app, which offers more than 36,000 cookbook recipes featuring garlic. Take out a 14 day free trial for unlimited access.

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